8o In the Heart of Africa 



The development of Kissenji is amazing. In 1906 the town 

 consisted merely of a few native huts. In order to map out the 

 new roads which had to be made Captain von Grawert and 

 Lieutenant Ullrich had to cut their way with axes through the 

 densest brushwood. And at the time of our visit, after but an 

 interval of twelve months, one was astonished to see there a 

 flourishing and daily growing trading centre with a population 

 of eight hundred people and eighty Duka* in which brisk 

 business was always going on. The development of this place 

 is primarily attributable to the energy and the astute policy of 

 Lieutenant Knecht, who took over the administration of the 

 town soon after it was laid out, and affords another striking 

 proof of the efficiency of the German officer when he is allowed 

 a free hand for the exercise of his power and abilities. 



After our prolonged period of tent life it was almost like 

 being in a large city again. The dejection of the carriers soon 

 changed to a state of cheerfulness, and perpetual applications for 

 advances were made for the purpose of polishing up their out- 

 ward appearance, which had naturally suffered from neglect on 

 the route. 



We took supper in the company of Father Superior Bar- 

 thelemy and some of his brethren at the little tea-house, which 

 from its commanding position offered a magnificent view over the 

 whole northern inlet of the lake and across the volcanic chain. 



A few hours later our land caravan came in, with everything 

 in good order, under the safe conduct of the non-commissioned 

 officer and my servant. 



There was a good deal of detail to be seen to and arranged 

 before we could contemplate special visits round the neighbour- 

 hood of Kissenji, to the islands of the lake, the Bugoie Forest, the 

 volcanoes, etc. 



We dismissed the Wahaia carriers of Bukoba, who had till 

 then rendered faithful service to the caravan and kept in perfect 

 health in spite of the shortness of bananas, which constitute their 

 main diet. In their place we found two hundred fresh carriers 



• Duka, store or shop. 



