82 In the Heart of Africa 



banished. The natural coolness prevalent in consequence makes 

 a visit there a very agreeable experience. The man who has this 

 place allotted to him for his sphere of activity draws a prize. In 

 front are the swirling breakers of the most beautiful of all the 

 Central African lakes, framed in by banks which fall back 

 steeply from the rugged masses of rock ; at the rear the stately 

 summits of the eight Virunga volcanoes. Truly he who has once 

 seen this delightful spot, and who has had the good fortune to 

 view the nocturnal skies when illuminated by the glowing blood- 

 red colours reflected by the flowing lava of the active crater of 

 Namlagira, has added a pearl to the treasure chest of his 

 memories, inalienable for life. 



A more grandiose spectacle still awaited us on the evening 

 of the 29th of August. It was glowing red in the heavens as far 

 as one could see, and the mighty crater of Namlagira was 

 thundering prodigiously. Fireworks of glowing rock and stone 

 flashed up high in the air. A column of smoke, illuminated 

 brightly by the fiery reflection of the outbreak, rose slowly up into 

 dizzy heights, and then expanded mushroom-like for many miles 

 around. We stood long admiring this natural phenomenon, over- 

 come by its majesty, until the gradual fading of the glow in- 

 dicated the end of the eruption. 



The delightful recollection of this scene was rudely dispelled 

 the next day, for a Job's messenger arrived with the news that a 

 mail caravan with its various loads organised for our benefit had 

 been attacked and pillaged by the Ruanda aboriginals. Captain 

 Grawert being still away, measures for regaining possession had 

 to remain in abeyance. However, an energetic protest despatched 

 to Msinga soon brought about the desired result. We were 

 quickly placed in possession of the complete mail from Europe 

 and all the plundered goods. The ringleader of the attack, 

 however, met with a heavy punishment. Msinga had him seized, 

 and then pierced through with a sharp stake before the eyes of 

 the people. The body of the robber was then exposed for weeks 

 to serve as an example of the sovereign will of the ruler of 

 Ruanda. 



