Lake Kiwu and its Islands 93 



courage when lion-hunting but went in deadly fear of buffaloes. 

 He was afraid that Maxi would capsize his canoe, and threatened 

 to shoot him through the head if he attempted to climb in. Maxi 

 hesitated a moment, but decided to risk the chance of death 

 by Amdallah's bullet to the more certain watery death ; and he 

 did well, for Amdallah reconsidered his intention, happily for 

 him, and laid down his rifle. Thus he became Maxi's saviour 

 against his will. The oarsmen of the two overladen boats, 

 however, ten in number, found their death in the waters of Kiwu, 

 the first victims of the expedition. The two most prominent 

 characteristics of their race — heedlessness when things go well 

 and fatalism when in the face of danger — led them on to their 

 doom. It was always a source of the greatest vexation to us 

 to notice how our oarsmen, powerful Wahutu from the northern 

 shore of the lake, dawdled away their time when the sun was 

 shining and the lake was smooth. It was only when the wind 

 sprang up and the waves began to roll that they woke up to 

 their work. 



This sad event induced us to take all needful precautionary 

 measures in future expeditions. When we had to pass over 

 broad open sheets of water, unprotected by any islands like 

 those between Mugarura and Wau, or Wau and Kwidschwi, we 

 would start at sunrise so as to reach our destination fairly early 

 in the forenoon, for experience had taught us that the stronger 

 breezes usually sprang up about noon. The oarsmen row to a 

 set stroke, whether in haste or no, and pull two long strokes and 

 one short one, or one long and two short strokes, with the loosely 

 held paddle-shaped oars. Now and again they work themselves 

 up to brisker efforts by the aid of peculiar cries led by one of 

 their number, the last word always being repeated by the chorus. 

 Unfortunately this method of progress is not of long duration, 

 and just when it would be of most service — when there is a bit 

 of sea — they lose their heads. Directly any wave splashes into 

 the boat they imagine that their last hour has struck, and are 

 inclined to stop rowing altogether. At these times a great deal 

 of energetic encouragement on the part of the Europeans is 



