I02 In the Heart of Africa 



west coast, which is grown over with low, dense virgin forest, 

 the green monotony of which is occasionally broken by a few 

 phoenix palms, presenting a pleasant change to the eye. The 

 splendid big turacou, the typical bird of Kwidschwi, and hosts 

 of grey parrots stirred and rustled the tree-tops. About two 

 o'clock in the afternoon we found a suitable landing-place in a 

 deeply indented creek. One or two natives stood on the shore 

 gazing in amazement and fear at our approaching flotilla. They 

 did not await our landing, however, but disappeared headlong 

 into the scrub. Then our rowers leaped into the shallow water, 

 as if at word of command, sprang on shore, and gave chase 

 to the fugitives. It was not long before they returned, laughing 

 and chattering, and bearing with them goods which had been 

 thrown down by the other natives in their flight. They appeared 

 to expect praise for their heroic deed, and were, therefore, rather 

 astonished when we gave them a few cuts with our sticks, and 

 ordered them to replace the stolen goods whence they had taken 

 them as speedily as possible. 



The next morning we journeyed farther south to try and 

 discover a suitable opening into the forest which covers the 

 central part of Kwidschwi. It begins sporadically on the banks 

 and rises, at its highest point, to about eight hundred metres 

 above the level of the lake. We intended to do some collecting 

 in this totally unknown virgin forest in order to be in a position 

 to compare it with the Rugege forest, and also the Congo forest, 

 which we had yet to explore. The island is about forty kilo- 

 metres in length and some fifteen kilometres across at its broadest 

 point, and is half covered with a forest of lofty trees. The 

 rest of it is, relatively, cultivated arable land. After a four 

 hours' journey, we arrived at a broad bay. The shores were 

 thickly vegetated with banana, pea, and bean fields, and not far 

 away lay the forest. A mighty umbelliform acacia near the 

 bank appeared to invite us to pitch our tents, and the forest 

 looked easily accessible from this point. Grawert had recom- 

 mended Tamate to us, the subordinate chieftain of the Niamischi 

 province, as being a suitable intermediary when negotiating 



