Lake Kiwu and its Islands 103 



with the natives, so we sent off a boat at once to bring him 

 along. 



The natives of Kwidschwi are much shyer than those of 

 Ruanda. In consequence of repeated attacks made upon them 

 by the Watussi, they regard all arrivals with mistrust. Their 

 numbers are estimated by Kandt at about 20,000, and are believed 

 to comprise all the sea-dwelling tribes, whose members look upon 

 the island as a harbour of refuge for those who, for some reason 

 or other, are weary of their homes. Kwidschwi was still a pro- 

 vince of Ruanda during the rule of Luabugiri, Juhi Msinga's 

 predecessor, but freed herself from the oppressive yoke of the 

 Watussi after the death of Luabugiri, and is now an independent 

 sultanate, under the sovereignty of Mihigos. The latter avoids 

 contact with Europeans, and all negotiations with him have to 

 take place through his subordinate chief, Tamate. The islanders 

 are diligent husbandmen, but possess little live stock. It is 

 stated that the Watussi robbed them of it — at least, they say so. 

 Although possessing the sturdy muscular physique of the 

 Wahutu, they are easily distinguishable by their striking head- 

 dress. The characteristic half-moon shaped coiffure worn by the 

 Wanjaruanda is not usual there. In its stead a long hair plait 

 stands out in sharp contrast against the shaven temples and 

 occiput. The style of their huts and clothing, especially as 

 regards the women, is similar to those of the Wahutu. We dis- 

 covered many little hamlets hidden away in banana groves in 

 the neighbourhood of our tents. At first their inhabitants con- 

 cealed themselves from us, and the doors of the huts were care- 

 fully barred, but they soon became more trustful. Our occupa- 

 tion of collecting all kinds of small creatures and plants certainly 

 aroused their wonder, but did not serve to convince them of the 

 friendly character of our visit. Three or four days after our 

 arrival I was passing a village, v/hen the senior villager ap- 

 proached me and said, "Jambo mami " ("Good day, gracious 

 sir"), striking his left thigh and his forehead with his left hand, 

 and stretching it out to me. A jug of fomhe and a bunch of 

 bananas were then brought to me as gifts. These were accepted, 



