ii6 In the Heart of Africa 



Gotzen crater. According to these, the diameter measures 1,251 

 metres, the depth 155 metres, and the diameter of the two eruptive 

 shafts 336 and 459 metres respectively. The spectacle presented 

 by this gigantic crater is simply stupendous. 



In Count Gotzen's time, in 1894, Ninagongo was still in full 

 activity, evidences of which were observable up to the year 1906. 

 At the time of our visit the two shafts were perfectly quiet and 

 peaceful. The numerous clefts and fissures on the floor of the 

 crater, from which steam escaped, alone reminded one of the 

 volcanic powers slumbering in the depths below. These may 

 awaken to action any day, for, in Kirschstein's judgment, the 

 apparent calm of the mountain in no way justifies the assumption 

 that Ninagongo is to be counted amongst the extinct volcanoes. 



The mountain is held by the natives to be " wasimu " (be- 

 witched), and their legend has it that any who ascend it must 

 perish. Only very few of the enlightened natives believe other- 

 wise. Our Kissubi preferred to avoid risking the anger of the 

 spirit of the mountain, and remained behind in camp. It was 

 only later, when Kirschstein made the ascent, that he reluctantly 

 decided to accompany him to the crater's edge. Yet Kirschstein 

 was still to experience how far justified were the honest fellow's 

 dread. He himself writes : 



"... Anyhow, I have quite spoilt things with Kissubi. My 

 amiable Ninagongo companion. Dr. Breuer, of Usumbura, must 

 bear the blame, as it was he who inveigled me into firing off my 

 gun, as he did himself, to test the remarkable echoes. It was 

 in vain that Kissubi warned us that we would awaken the moun- 

 tain spirit's vengeance. We laughed at him and his mountain 

 goblins. A few weeks later I suffered the loss of half my 

 caravan whilst ascending Karissimbi in a snow-storm. That, 

 said my black carriers, was Ninagongo's vengeance. ..." 



The echo of a shot fired breaks — as I have myself experienced 

 —a thousandfold against the rocks, and it appears as if the sound 

 were raging round and round the crater walls incessantly, unable 

 to discover a way out. No wonder, then, that the spirit of the 

 mountain waxes wrathful. His name is Gongo. He is the chief 



