i6o In the Heart of Africa 



Unfortunately this colossal volcanic giant was not fated to 

 be conquered without loss of human life. Kirschstein and his 

 caravan were overtaken by a terrible catastrophe on Karissimbi. 

 When I received the following letter from Kirschstein I was 

 filled with deep pity for the poor fellows who, whilst faithfully 

 fulfilling their duty, had fallen victims to their superstitions: — 



" My labours at Karissimbi were for the most part concluded 

 by the 26th of February. My frozen followers had held on for 

 a full seven days with me in the airy heights without grumbling. 

 Added to the unwonted cold we were suffering from shortness of 

 provisions. I therefore resolved to begin the descent. It was a 

 bright sunny morning when we struck camp on the eastern edge 

 of the Branca Crater, where for the time being we had pitched 

 our tents. It never entered our heads then that in a few short 

 hours we should be brought face to face with grim death. . . . 



" As we had to return by the southern side of the mountain 

 on account of its being an easier descent, I' selected the shorter 

 cut right across the Branca Crater instead of making a circuit of 

 it, which would have meant a journey of two or three hours 

 longer. The imposing, broad, flat surface of the crater forms 

 a great moor, from the centre of which a small, irregular volcanic 

 cone rises up. On the cone there is a beautiful clear lake 

 encircled by very steep walls. A few other lakes, shut in partly 

 by low hills, lie to the south-east and north-west of the otherwise 

 perfectly level and spongy floor of the crater. 



"We had safely traversed the first half of the moor when 

 we were suddenly assailed by an extraordinarily violent shower 

 of hail which came down from an almost bright sky, whilst a 

 dense fog gathered at the same time. The temperature sank to 

 zero, and then a snowstorm of such fury set in that, if I had 

 not myself been a witness of it, I should have deemed it im- 

 possible in equatorial Africa. My carriers had scarcely perceived 

 the snow when they threw away their loads, lay down on the 

 ground, and with wails declared that they must die. It was in 

 vain that I urged them to pursue the march. I made it quite 

 plain to them that lying down on the icy cold, swampy ground, 



