To Lake Albert Edward 169 



with a glass the glistening surface of Lake Albert Edward, five 

 days' march distant, and the outlines of the snow mountains of 

 Ruwenzori some hundred and fifty kilometres away. From here 

 the path drops steeply down into the Rutschuru plain. The 

 lower one descends, the more luxuriant grows the grass between 

 the villages. 



At the foot of the hill, where the post of Rutschuru lies, we 

 crossed the wild-rushing River Rutschuru over a passable bridge 

 — the only one I had seen until then in the Congo State. A 

 broad road led up to the post, at the entrance to which we were 

 received by the Commandant Superieur Derche and others, and 

 a company of soldiers some 150 strong, who, then and also later 

 in the march past, made an excellent impression. 



Rutschuru consists of a small fort witli walls and moat, the 

 Askari village, 300 metres away, and a few thatched European 

 houses. It is the seat of the Chef de zone, Captain Baudelet 

 at that time, and the Chef de secteur, whose functions during 

 our visit were fulfilled by Lieutenant Spiltoir. 



We passed two or three days in most friendly and agreeable 



hospitality, and then we were obliged to push forward in the 



little-visited district of the northern Rutschuru valley. By easy 



marches through the perfectly level plain we arrived at 



Maji ja moto (" Hot water "), which owes its name to the hot 



springs which gush out of the rocks. The water is exceedingly 



hot, the highest temperature taken by Kirschstein being 90 degrees 



Celsius. According to our analysis it appeared to be a fairly 



pure carbonate of soda water with a slight alkaline taste. A 



smell of sulphuretted hydrogen was very noticeable. Ferrying 



over the Semliki was not devoid of danger, for the current rushed 



along so furiously that it was impossible to keep a boat in 



position. We were consequently compelled to fasten long ropes 



to the nose and the stern-post of the dug-out and construct a 



sort of flying ferry. The pressure of the water against the side 



of the boats was so great that they often lurched dangerously 



and were in peril of capsizing ; each contained about six people 



and their loads. 

 w 



