178 In the Heart of Africa 



the greater become the deposits of debris and shells, evidences 

 that the country was formerly under water. 



The plains gradually dip into the watery surface, from the 

 slimy subsoil of which thickets of reeds and rushes shoot up and 

 border the southern parts of the banks as with a broad ribbon. 



The ornithological wealth of this part of Africa is amazing. 

 Pelicans move about in thousands on the southern banks of the 

 estuary of the Rutschuru, and sport peacefully amongst the 

 numerous hippopotami in the narrow dry places. The hoarse cry 

 of the heron is intermingled with the dull tones of the bittern, or 

 mire-drum, and the snow-white plumage of the ardea nobilis con- 

 trasts effectively with the dark green of the reeds. The swarms 

 of marsh and w^ater-hens are indescribable as they flit light-footed 

 to and fro on the water grasses and fearlessly suffer the approach 

 of our folding boat, whilst the air is filled with immense hosts of 

 white and grey gulls. Wild duck and geese of the most varied 

 species rush through the air with whistling and flapping of wings. 

 There is a twittering and chattering of innumerable little 

 songsters amongst the reeds, and on the margin the rosy tantalus 

 ibis, in company with the marabou, fishes warily for his sustenance 

 in the shallow water. 



Picture to yourself the evening scene: The yellow steppe 

 covered with sappy-green trees surrounded by mountains 

 shadowed by black clouds, which rumble and flash ; then sud- 

 denly the blood-red sun shoots forth, and illumines the whole, 

 painting the cloud-edges pink. The beautiful tints of a rainbow 

 suddenly gleam out. Gazing at all these splendid tones of 

 colour, which are reflected again on the water, one doubts whether 

 the richest palette which painter ever held could reproduce such 

 magnificence. 



Thanks to the courtesy of the Belgian officers, the two Congo- 

 lese Government steel boats stationed on the lake were placed at 

 our disposal for our journey across. A number of native boats 

 also awaited us. As they were only able to take a small part of 

 our loads, Weidemann was commissioned to conduct the main 

 caravan along the east bank to Kissenji, which we hoped to reach 



