10 In the Heart of Africa 



and fresh buffalo and elephant paths gave evidence of an 

 abundance of game. 



We were received at Beni by Derche, the chief commandant 

 of the district, at the head of his forces, and accompanied by 

 the officers of his staff, who had kindly protracted their visit 

 of inspection until our arrival. 



Next to the German station, Kissenji, on Lake Kiwu, Beni 

 is doubtless the most attractive of the inland stations which we 

 visited. The choice of its position alone gives evidence of fore- 

 thought and taste. The gently sloping hill rising from the level 

 plain of the Central African rift-valley, on which Beni is erected, 

 is brushed on its western edge by the Great African forest, which 

 extends to Ubangi, whilst the south-eastern slope falls away 

 steeply to the Semliki, which winds and bends around the foot 

 of the station, its average breadth being about lOO metres. 

 Pretty, white-washed houses present a friendly aspect, an im- 

 pression which is increased by a broad, open space on which 

 waves the blue flag with the yellow star. The houses are con- 

 nected by trim paths, bordered with banana trees. 



The Belgian settlement in the Beni district is of quite recent 

 date, and therefore capable of considerable development. Re- 

 bellion amongst the natives is chiefly answerable for the delayed 

 opening up of this fertile district. The fear of punishment for 

 past misdeeds drove the natives into the mountains every time 

 the Belgians appeared, and frustrated all pacific and conciliatory 

 approaches. It was not until the year 1907 that some of the 

 tribes could be induced to return to their villages and homes, 

 where they were treated with all kindness and assured of the 

 groundlessness of their fears. Their example brought others 

 back, and whilst we were there we saw banana plantations 

 flourishing again, and agriculture generally in a thriving con- 

 dition. At the back of the mountain ranges there are still many 

 chieftains, however, who refuse allegiance to all Europeans, and 

 are looked upon, with reason, as dangerous. Even though these 

 rebels may not openly attack, yet by their attitude they greatly 

 impede the proper cultivation of the land. Apart from their 



