222 In the Heart of Africa 



Here, likewise, every wish that we expressed was courteously 

 acceded to, and valuable information of all kinds imparted. 



The sudden change from the oppressive heat to a cool tem- 

 perature had affected Wiese's health. Consequently we claimed 

 our hosts' hospitality for a day longer than we had intended, 

 and then set out northwards towards Lake Albert, following the 

 course of the Semliki. The river flows sluggishly, growing 

 broader and then narrower again. Hippopotamus heads popped 

 up here and there from the yellow waters, and on the sandy 

 banks dozens of crocodiles sunned themselves ; motionless, with 

 gaping jaws, they formed a typical picture of indolence. Iso- 

 lated borassus palms raised their curled heads aloft, their 

 slender stems being mirrored on the water's surface as though 

 conscious of their beauty. With their sandy surroundings they 

 conjured up pictures and memories of Egypt. Detached villages 

 dotted on the landscape here and there lent animation to the 

 scene, although they appeared to be sparsely inhabited. Our 

 thermometer registered 40 degrees Celsius when we pitched our 

 tents in the neighbourhood of the bed of the Ethengi. 



A few days later we reached the western marginal mountain 

 of the rift-valley. On our right the plain gradually merged into 

 a sea of reeds stretching on for an illimitable distance. With 

 the aid of our glasses we descried in the distance the grey backs 

 of elephants comfortably sunning themselves, although the 

 shimmering waves of hot air rendered clear outlines almost im- 

 possible. At length we chanced on a small wood that promised 

 cool, refreshing shade. On entering its inviting retreat there was 

 commotion in the foliage, and crowds of monkeys, including 

 beautiful specimens of the colobus, with long white-haired 

 backs, sprang from tree to tree reviling us. 



Our camp was erected at Boguma, close to crumbling, 

 thatched huts which gave evidence of the activity of the British 

 Boundary Commission. Unfortunately the trees around had been 

 stripped of their leaves by the elephants to a height of many 

 metres, and there was a struggle to reach those that held out 

 the greatest promise of shade for our tents. 



