270 In the Heart of Africa 



that the banks of the river were completely obscured by the rain. 

 At these times the captain had no means of keeping his course, 

 and we had to anchor immediately. Where a strong wind 

 accompanied these downpours we endeavoured to find some 

 tolerably sheltered spot near the banks, where we often stayed 

 for hours until the weather cleared. Heavy morning mists, too, 

 frequently delayed us in starting. 



We arrived at Nouvelle Anvers, which is one of the largest 

 stations of the interior, and officered by fifteen white men, on 

 the 17th of May. Its numerous substantially built structures 

 give an excellent impression. The mission church really amazes 

 one by its size and its dignified beauty, and is an excellent 

 example of the building powers possessed by the negroes when 

 under proper European control. The station is situated in the 

 centre of a district that is visited heavily by sleeping sickness. 

 This is a fact borne witness to by a hundred patients who were 

 lying in the local hospital undergoing the atoxyl treatment. 

 The State, as I have previously mentioned, is fully alive to 

 the terrible danger of this plague, which is spreading more 

 and more in the Upper Congo, and spares no efforts in combating 

 it. In the big hospital laboratory at Leopoldville the origin 

 and treatment of this dire disease forms a subject of most serious 

 scientific study, but, so far, no positive and lasting success has 

 resulted. 



Coquilhatville, our next stopping place, is the terminus of 

 the telegraphic connection with the coast. It is a very attractive 

 looking spot and lies in the midst of beautiful horticultural 

 gardens. The Commissaire Royal, M. Henry, a special ambas- 

 sador from the sovereign, was stopping there. He was travelling 

 under supreme commission of State to examine into the conditions 

 of the stations and the state of the natives, and was to report 

 later direct to His Majesty. These visits, which are repeated 

 at intervals, prove beyond doubt that the Government is actuated 

 by the best of motives, and does all in its power to protect the 

 natives from any injustices. 



Twenty minutes' steaming sufficed to bring us to Eala, the 



