172 LIFE IN THE FAR WEST. 



to remove the eternal cigarro from their lips. They, from 

 under their broad-brimmed sombreros, scowled with little 

 affection on the stalwart hunters, who clattered past them, 

 scarcely deigning to glance at the sullen Pelados, but pay- 

 ing incomprehensible compliments to the buxom wenches 

 who smiled at them from the doors. Thus exchanging 

 salutations, they rode up to the house of an old moun- 

 taineer, who had long been settled here with a New 

 Mexican wife, and who was the recognised entertainer of 

 the hunters when they visited Taos valley, receiving in 

 exchange such peltry as they brought with them. 



No sooner was it known that Los Americanos had 

 arrived than nearly all the householders of Fernandez 

 presented themselves to offer the use of their " salas " for 

 the fandango which invariably celebrated their arrival. 

 This was always a profitable event ; for as the mountaineers 

 were generally pretty well " flush " of cash when on their 

 " spree," and as open-handed as an Indian could wish, the 

 sale of whisky, with which they regaled all coiners, pro- 

 duced a handsome return to the fortunate individual whose 

 room was selected for the fandango. On this occasion the 

 sala of the Alcalde Don Cornelio Vegil was selected and 

 put in order ; a general invitation was distributed ; and 

 all the dusky beauties of Fernandez were soon engaged 

 in arraying themselves for the fete. Off came the coats 

 of dirt and alegria which had bedaubed their faces since 

 the last "funcion," leaving their cheeks clear and clean. 

 Water was profusely used, and their cuerpos were doubt- 

 less astonished by the unusual lavation. Their long black 

 hair was washed and combed, plastered behind their ears, 

 and plaited into a long queue, which hung down their 

 backs. Enaguas of gaudy colour (red most affected) were 

 donned, fastened round the waist with ornamented belts, 

 and above this a snow-white camisita of fine linen was the 

 only covering, allowing a prodigal display of their charms. 

 Gold and silver ornaments, of antiquated pattern, decorate 

 their ears and necks ; and massive crosses of the precious 

 metals, wrought from the gold or silver of their own 

 placeres, hang pendent on their breasts. The enagua or 



