268 TO DABJILING : FIBST HIMALAYAN JOUBNEY 



and impracticable ; thin lips, a good chin, thin arched nose 

 and narrow nostrils, high cheek bones and forehead, cold 

 grey eyes and handsome brows ; no beard or moustache, and 

 a nut brown, but not bronzed complexion. His years must 

 be above 60 and his hair was scant and grizzled. A stiff, 

 black, small cap, with high brim standing up all round, rather 

 set off the repelling look he maintained. Taken to pieces, 

 he might be described as a funny mixture of the old woman, 

 from his beardless face, the Lama priest from his dress and 

 rosary, and a burly, well-to-do Landamman, deputed from 

 some Swiss Canton to resist to the uttermost the demands 

 of a dangerous neighbour power, unflinching under opposi- 

 tion and unscrupulous in makeshifts, always the bear, often 

 the bully, and ever the sturdiest opponent of the overtures 

 of his antagonist, even when designed for his own good. 

 These qualities, together with an unblushing effrontery and 

 consummate skill in fabrication and a large interest in the 

 monopoly of Sikkim trade, rendered him a fit tool for the 

 Bajah. Beaten at all points he has to give in, and there 

 he stands, showing neither sulks nor smiles, just respectful 

 enough to avoid censure and no more. 



A real character stands at his elbow, a little old withered 

 Thibetan, leaning on his long bamboo bow, simply clothed 

 in a woollen robe, his grey hair floating in the wind, bowed 

 with age, of mild expression, and stone blind. He is a Sene- 

 schal to the party, devoted to his country, and the Companion 

 of the Baj ah's deputations to the Political Agent of the power- 

 ful Government whose advances his master rejects. When he 

 speaks, and this is very seldom (and as it is always in his own 

 half Chinese tongue no Englishman can interpret it), the 

 burthen of his story passes from tongue to tongue ; he is 

 evidently the oracle of the party ; his placid looks and grey 

 hair would lead me to confide in him and address him as 

 Father, but I have a grim suspicion that his views narrow as 

 his years go on, that he was bereaved of his best and brightest 

 sense before our power showed itself in these hills, and that 

 his crafty companions have taken advantage of this and 

 done more than leave him in the dark as to our real power 

 to punish, but wish to reward and encourage. 



The attendants upon these, the Baj ah's representatives 

 (and their own, for, being a large ^sharer in the monopoly of 



