270 TO DAEJ1LING : FIEST HIMALAYAN JOUKNEY 



It would take pages to describe the various groups of 

 bystanders : mild Lepchas in striped cotton, long naked 

 limbed Goorkhas of model muscle and saucy air, Bhoteas 

 of all shades of Chinese feature ; Bhotanese, or subjects of 

 the Dhurma Kajah, vieing with one another in rags, dirt, 

 hideous ugliness and quaint ornaments, some deeply scarred 

 with smallpox and the pits such receptacles of blackness 

 that their visages looked as if peppered with duck-shot. 

 Most have turned up eyes, very prominent cheek bones, 

 projecting baboon mouth and large teeth ; nearly all are 

 of villainous countenance, of singularly low forehead and 

 bad cut of head ; the predominance of the animal propensities 

 (fid. the phrenologists) being well displayed from the custom 

 of clipping close the hair. 



The Cis-Himalayan Bhoteas, whether of Sikkim or, worse 

 still, of Bhotan, are as uncouth a race (short of savages 

 like the Australian or Fuegian) as I ever beheld. A little 

 sprinkling of Hindus and Mussulmen, chiefly our servants, 

 with the above comprises the oriental population. Amongst 

 them all were Mrs. Campbell's beautiful children, holding 

 by our hands and as indifferent to the wild races about them 

 as an English child is scared by the sight of an English 

 beggar-man. 



And now I daresay you will be ready to ask, what con- 

 fidence I can expect to repose with remarkable prudence in 

 such a gang and this is easily answered. I take no money, 

 and my plant papers and instruments are poor plunder. 

 The people, though so averse to foreigners, do neither rob 

 nor injure ; were they inclined to, the Eajah's power over 

 his people and his mortal dread of us would be a sufficient 

 protection. Further I have the Nepalese guard before 

 whom, for very shame, they must be polite and attentive, 

 and in whom, as acting under the orders of their Govern- 

 ment, the most implicit reliance may be reposed, for the 

 Goorkha, when under orders and in confidential employ, 

 is the soul of honor and of politesse too. Lastly, as they 

 will not get a rap of pay till they bring me back safe and 

 what they will receive then will be a fortune to each, they 

 will consult their own interests as well as mine. So I expect 

 devoted service from my guard, for it is their pride to devote 

 themselves under such orders and auspices, companionship 



