PEBSONAL INFLUENCE 271 



from what Lepchas I may take, passive obedience 

 from such of the Eajah's men as may accompany me, 

 perhaps a little obstinacyTand presumptuous interference 

 at first] and insolence which I can better check with 

 ridicule and exposure before the Goorkhas than by any 

 other means. The Bhotea porters will keep one eye on 

 me and the other on the Eajah's men and serve both 

 masters if they can. 



My great aim is so to conduct this attempt that it may 

 be followed by another and to avoid suspicion. This will 

 be difficult in Sikkim, and for the first few marches I shall 

 make few or no observations, excepting of the barometer 

 &c. in my tent, the only explanation a Bhotea can harbor 

 of which is my desire to take the country. In Nepaul I 

 may do as I like, the Goorkha having no orders to stop my 

 observing ; but in Sikkim I cannot knock a stone or pull a 

 plant without disturbing the Gods, in other words exciting 

 suspicion. I go, however, ostensibly as a botanist, and I 

 will warrant that before two days are over every man jack 

 of them will be collecting for me. I have always found 

 frankness and kindness good policy with any nation, es- 

 pecially if combined with a reasonable amount of personal 

 vanity, which I abundantly possess, and assumption of 

 superiority and, above all, a liberally flattering opinion of 

 the people openly expressed. 1 



The Eajah's people first offered carriers and porters, 

 then withdrew the offer, which I am glad of, as the latter 

 will be more my own people and have a double interest in 

 behaving well ; they, after some hesitation, give me a guide ; 

 he looks a good man enough and Campbell has seen him 

 repeatedly. He is to accompany me to Nepaul too if I 

 like, but this will depend on what sort of servant I find him. 



1 In the end the personal imjpression left on the Sikkimese by Hooker was 

 remarkable. Twenty- two years later the country was again visited by a Euro- 

 pean, the botanist and traveller, Mr. H. J. Elwes, F.R.S. Even then, Mr. Elwes 

 tells me, the Lepchas almost worshipped him. The learned Hakim, so friendly 

 to his men and to the villagers, hale or sick, was remembered as an incarnation 

 of high wisdom and kindly strength ; and in 1908, after fifty-nine years, he was 

 still a living memory (see the illustration which follows). As an observer, also, 

 a high tribute is paid him by Mr. Elwes. Of all the countries in which the 

 latter travelled, here only, whatever he saw, he saw with his predecessor's eyes. 

 Hooker had noted everything that he himself found of interest : nothing was 

 missed ; places and objects all clearly described and promptly recognised. (See 

 ii. 125.) 



