36 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE 



been agreed upon and said delay caused unwarranted 

 expense for the person concerned, provided berth shall 

 ha,ve been engaged under such conditions. In my case it 

 only amounts to about three German thaler, but I shall 

 surely not let Knohr and Burchard be the gainers. What 

 is good for them is still better for me. You will readily 

 understand that Hugo and I live as economically as snails 

 — faute d' argent. Yv T e seldom venture out during the 

 forenoon, but are generally at the great "Exchange" by 

 one o'clock, about two we have our dinner, after which 

 the daily pleasure walk, which mostly starts or ends at 

 the Harbor. Between seven and eight o'clock we return 

 home, where we at once proceed to bed in order to save 

 candles. Thus we spend day after day. I have every 

 reason to be grateful to Kosenstock for his letter of rec- 

 ommendation to Heinrich Bartsch; this gentleman assists 

 me in many ways and shows general interest in me; but 

 of this I shall write later. Now a few words about Ham- 

 burg and the Hamburger people, in as much as I have 

 had opportunity to judge of them during my short stay. 



If someone were to ask me to personify Berlin I should 

 not hesitate in comparing her to a vain, coquettish, yet 

 well-mannered, middle aged but still attractive Lady of 

 the Court; but Hamburg— that is quite a difficult propo- 

 sition. 



Hamburg, seen from different sides, impresses one dif- 

 ferently. The magnificent harbor, the beautiful Jung- 

 fernstieg (Maiden-Promenade), the Alster, the great Ex- 

 change, the Old-Town, the suburbs St. Pauli and St. 

 George— each represents a type of its own, and still 

 through them all winds its way like a red thread, the 

 Merchant Prince.* You find him everywhere, on the 

 promenades, in the Opera as well as in the many lesser 

 theaters, concert halls, beer gardens, wine cellars, restau- 

 rants — mostly subterranean— everywhere the merchant 

 prince. All Hamburg breathes commerce. As the "Ex- 



*Commercienrath, a mere title, given by sovereigns to favorite 

 bankers and merchants. 



