BERLIN TO HAMBURG 45 



Now let us return to the description of Hamburg and 

 its inhabitants: 



The architecture of the city, taking it all iu all, is 

 rather old-fashioned as may well be imagined, when one 

 considers that this old Ilansatown celebrated its millen- 

 nial existence half a century ago (1811). I have even 

 seen mediaeval facades on many buildings which have 

 arisen from the ashes after the great fire of 1842, which 

 wiped nearly one hundred and forty streets and two gi- 

 gantic church edifices, St. Nicholas' and St. Peter's, out 

 of existence. From May 8th to the 11th, the disastrous 

 flames raged, demanding many a human sacrifice and the 

 loss of millions of property. The newly laid streets are 

 wide and straight but many of the old ones which were 

 spared during the fire are decidedly crooked and narrow, 

 while the squares arc small. Berlin, in this respect, is 

 ahead, liven the sidewalks are poorly paved and only 

 such great and fashionable thoroughfares as the Jung- 

 fernstieg, Alsterdamm, Grosse und Hohe Bleichen, Alter 

 and Neuerwall, Herrmann and Ferdinandstrasse, Speer- 

 sort, Schauenburgerstrasse, etc., etc., are exceptions. The 

 grading and plastering otherwise is decidedly a credit to 

 the municipal government and the street department in 

 particular. The cleanliness is greatly aided by the many 

 channels, broad and narrow, which cross the city in every 

 direction. All streets, as well as the public buildings, 

 have ample gas supply.* 



Follow me and I shall take you in imagination to the 

 Esplanade, thence to the Alster, after which I shall close 

 this letter, else you may be tempted to apply the yard- 

 measure to it. But, Hamburg is interesting enough to 

 engage one in writing letters of this length every day. 



One has to visit the "Esplanade" either early in the 

 morning or late at night. Hamburg is encircled by what 



*Remember, kind reader, that this, as well as all the following 

 descriptions were written long ago. Progress has since wrought 

 wonders, for the public-spirited people of Hamburg spare no ex- 

 pense nor trouble to make their city as attractive as possible. — 

 Transl. 



