54 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE 



ly distinguish it on a week day from any ordinary large 

 square in other cities. But the "Hamburger Berg" on 

 Sundays is well worth seeing. Fancy to yourself the 

 wildest noise, such as you hear in county fairs in small 

 towns, only twenty or thirty times worse, with crowds 

 corresponding to the noise and you will obtain a fairly 

 good picture of the scene, which enlivens the "Hambur- 

 ger Berg" on Sunday afternoons. Everything to be seen 

 and heard, as long as there is money in circulation. There 

 are: Penny museums, acrobats, menageries, dancing bears, 

 monkeys on hand-organs, manipulated by Italians, who 

 have trained the little animals to present a cup for col- s 

 lection of stray pennies; organs of all kinds, dimensions 

 and sounds; harp players of either sex, and in their re- 

 spective national garbs; merry-go-rounds; wild men from 

 Borneo and close-by realms; Punch and Judy shows, and 

 thousands of other things. Between the tents there are 

 tables, filled with southern fruits and sweets, at astonish- 

 ingly low prices. Italian oranges are exhibited on these 

 occasions in marvelous quantities. Thousands and thou- 

 sands of people, representing all nations and classes of 

 humanity crowd the walks, eating, drinking, smoking, 

 merry-making. Most sight-seers are seafaring men, sol- 

 diers, servant girls in their odd Hamburg style of dress- 

 ing; the ever present, ever shouting, ever drumming, 

 trumpeting, whistling, happy Hamburger boys are not to 

 be forgotten; their number is legion, their watchword: 

 fun. After one has taken in all the sights and side-show 

 wonders of the "Hamburger Berg" one arrives at St. 

 Pauli proper, which is the most notorious suburb of the 

 metropolis. This notoriety, however, fits only that part 

 of the locality where sailors, ferry-men (Ewerftihrer) 

 and the rougher shore and saloon element have their 

 abodes and stamping grounds. The upper St. Pauli has 

 nice, respectable, well populated streets, which show lit- 

 tle life on work days, a strange fact, which all suburbs of 

 Hamburg seem to have in common, as the only parts 

 which are populated during working hours are the busi- 

 ness quarters, the exchange and the water front, where 



