58 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEX GATE 



nor did I tire of listening to the beautiful, lively music, 

 notwithstanding that the Austrians had their turn this 

 time. Toward evening we returned to our dwelling place 

 by the way of the picturesque suburb of Eimsbiittel. 



Hamburg, May 18th, 1851. 

 Such a walk as I took a week ago and which I endeav- 

 ored to describe to you in my letter of the day before yes- 

 terday, offers much diversion and much food for thought- 

 ful minds. Whenever the Hamburg weather is favorable 

 on Sunday afternoons, one can see all Hamburg on foot, 

 to inhale a breath of fresh, country air, or of the sea 

 breeze, in one or another resort. Of course, one has to 

 be a good sprinter to get the full benefit, as it includes 

 often miles of walking upon stony sidewalks before he 

 reaches the country roads. Those who have carriages 

 at their disposal are, of course, at an advantage. All 

 hotels, inns, coffee gardens, beer gardens, from the most 

 select to the poor man's resorts, are crowded with hu- 

 manity, though the number of such country resorts is 

 truly amazing. Everywhere is music, from grand or- 

 chestra concerts, to plain dancing hall music, and the 

 Hamburg people do love to dance, so much so, that I be- 

 lieve they would feel very much out of place where music 

 and dancing are not at least a part of the program. The 

 dances are the ever present, unavoidable gallop and the 

 so-called Ehinelander or Polish Radowaczka, in which the 

 merry-makers constantly change position from right to 

 left— which is certainly very amusing to look upon, as 

 most of these people know quite well how to dance. Let 

 it be understood, however, that the dancing public varies 

 in the matter of etiquette and manners, according to the 

 resort they frequent, though it struck me very peculiarly 

 that the women dancers seem to be less particular 

 whether they dressed in silks and satin, or in the plain 

 cotton of the farm hand: girls as well as boys are em- 

 ployed on German farms and work in harmony; they are 

 simply all out for a good time, caring little for ceremony 

 and etiquette. The fact that most of them address each 



