102 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE 



it caused quite an unheaval, during which one could notice 

 a lively curling of the surface. It was likewise during 

 this calm that we experienced the greatest heat of the 

 voyage ; thus, for instance, on July 13th about two o'clock 

 in the afternoon we registered no less than twenty-nine 

 degrees Reaumur in the shade, though the air was 

 clouded. It was a rare pleasure when the temperature 

 fell below twenty degrees either morning or evening. 



Though I have repeatedly tried to picture an evening 

 in the tropics, nothing can be compared to the imposing 

 majesty of Nature during a thunderstorm, of which I have 

 seen a number; and I shall never forget the wonderful 

 sight of the first one, which left such a deeply-rooted im- 

 pression upon me that nothing will ever erase it from my 

 memory as long as I breathe. 



To the great joy of everybody the prevailing calm was 

 interrupted during the forenoon of July the fifteenth by 

 a light Eastern breeze, while the air was not oppressive. 

 We had all sails laid-to and our course was S. V2 W. The 

 wind grew less again toward eleven o'clock and complete 

 calm had returned by two in the afternoon. The air was 

 burning hot, as the glowing sun-rays were right above 

 our heads and not a cloud on the sky. The horizon was 

 hemmed in by a light violet-colored fog. We made the 

 best of the situation and passed the time by examining 

 the surrouuding ships, no less than thirteen in number, 

 the movements of which we observed through telescopes. 

 The vessels which were close enough to each other had 

 hoisted their flags and the captain of a Dutch bark was 

 seen to take a boat for the purpose of visiting a large full- 

 masted vessel which was only a very short distance away 

 and belonged to the same nation. The dark-blue Atlantic 

 was as smooth as a mirror and numberless flying fish were 

 jumping here and there out of its glassy surface, and you 

 will form an idea of the calm when I say that it was im- 

 possible for us to decide the nationality of one ship — a 

 black, heavy-laden bark, which was only a mile from us— 

 because there was not enough breeze to unfold its flag. 

 Until about five o'clock everything remained unchanged 



