128 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE 



perpetual snow. The sight of these cliffs, on which the 

 most terrific storms and breakers had beaten during 

 thousands of years past, created a feeling of indescrib- 

 able gloom, uneasiness and sadness, which was rather 

 increased by the immense swarms of screeching alba- 

 trosses, ocean geese and cape doves, which find shelter 

 here by millions. As we were lucky enough to reach 

 these Ramirez Isles by half past six o'clock, i. e., just 

 before dark, at a distance of about four German miles, 

 I could not forego the pleasure of drawing a few sketches, 

 though, upon my word, my fingers became as stiff as the 

 horns of a billy goat. 



The approaching night made it gradually impossible 

 for us to distinguish the disappearing of the archipelago 

 from our horizon, and the strong breeze drove our ship 

 quickly through the calm waters in a Southwest direc- 

 tion. We had by this time crossed the Atlantic in its 

 wildest dimension and entered upon the waters of the 

 South Sea. 



I shall now take a short respite and then make a re- 

 view for your benefit of the last few days, to complete 

 this report. 



Now, since everything is a matter of the past, I am glad 

 to have gone through it. The trials were indeed over- 

 whelming and injurious to the health of every one, but, 

 notwithstanding all privations, I had the good fortune 

 of coming out hale and hearty. 



It creates quite a sensation while one is sitting in the 

 circle of loved ones around the aromatic tea table 

 and close by the old-fashioned fireplace, to read a well 

 written description of some thrilling sea novel, with its 

 snowstorms, its creaking and breaking of masts, its rat- 

 tling of frozen rigging; and one thus by contrast feels a 

 glow of satisfaction in the warm and cosy homestead. 

 But you will believe me, that to read a description of a 

 tornado, and to actually live through it, are decidedly 

 two very different things, particularly when the scene 

 takes place amidst real snow and ice around Cape Horn. 

 One may experience a profound feeling for all that is 



