THE OCEAN VOYAGE 135 



My path with the dried-up bed of a mountain or forest 

 stream, a deep cavity between mossy walls, on which 

 wild climbers would run up and down, swinging their 

 gay flowers back and forth in the evening air. Every 

 step in this rocky wall gave me indescribable delight, so 

 that I made for myself a path through weeds and bushes 

 of fuschias, which were seemingly determined to oppose 

 my progress the higher I went. 



When I had reached a height of about four hundred 

 feet above the sea I stopped and sat down upon the stump 

 of an old laurel tree, which was covered with moss. 

 There at my feet lay the harbor in which I counted ten 

 barks and one three-masted vessel, all Chileans; all were 

 at anchor and further away was our "Victoria." To my 

 right there reflected the beautiful evening sky in the mir- 

 ror-like mouth of the Rio Valdivia, between the high 

 Fort of Niebla and the charming island Mansera, the tree 

 covered mountain peak of which was only surpassed in 

 height by the snow-capped peak of the Volcano of Villa 

 Rica, which showed light smoke; to my left was the open- 

 ing of the harbor; between mountain forests and the 

 rocky coast of the South Sea could be plainly seen as 

 far as Cape "El Molino." The coast mountains, some 

 six hundred feet high and covered with thickly set trees, 

 were under the spell of profound silence, as even the 

 screeching of the parrot could but rarely be heard. 

 Everything was solemn and qniet. Had it not been for 

 the approaching darkness I surely would not have 

 thought of returning; even then 1 did so reluctantly, by 

 the way through the arroyo bed. 



While Criinhagen and I were awaiting the boat of the 

 "Victoria," we accidentally met Don Rafael Asenco, the 

 port master, who drew us into an English conversation. 

 The man must have takes a liking to us as lie asked as !■> 

 he his guests the same evening, an invitation which we 

 thankfully accepted. We appeared at the proper time 

 to find five or six Chilean sea captains and two French- 

 men. The ladies present, among whom the three daugh- 

 ters of Sefior Asenco, spoke only Spanish. Notwithstand- 



