136 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE 



ing this I spent a very pleasant evening as I could any- 

 how talk to some of the captains either in French or 

 English. There was dancing and singing with guitar ac- 

 companiment, all with doors and windows open, which 

 are only closed in times when people do not wish to 

 receive visitors. 



The night was mild and when I returned about mid- 

 night to Capt. Sanlar's gig my whole voyage with all its 

 disagreeableness seemed but a past dream. While we 

 were gliding along the mirror-like bay, the beautiful, 

 silvery, full moon dipped its shining light into the silent 

 waters and the dark forest threw its quiet shadow about, 

 while we returned on board the "Victoria." 



Such were the first few hours which I spent upon 

 American soil. The kind hospitality which I found upon 

 my arrival in a foreign land left a lasting impression and 

 served as a good omen. 



During the following two days we had many visits 

 from Germans of Valdivia, which did not interest me 

 particularly. I preferred to tramp and climb on the 

 beach and in the mountains, notwithstanding the fre- 

 quent showers. The weather became pleasant and steady 

 about the Sunday following. The night before was 

 marked by the departure of those passengers who desired 

 to remain in Valdivia and as I was very anxious to see 

 that city I joined the travelers, among whom was Griin- 

 hagen. We rented a boat and the five of us, accompanied 

 by a young merchant named Uhtemann, who had been in 

 Valdivia about a year, left the "Victoria" at nine o'clock 

 in the morning of Sunday, the twelfth. Our way led up 

 the broad and deep Rio Valdivia, which bears the name 

 Calla-calle after passing the city. The high rocky banks 

 are covered with impenetrable forests which rarely show 

 a mark of ax or fire. Here and there in caves we saw 

 scattered a few huts and block-houses, the dwellings of 

 Chilean wood choppers (peones) or of newly immigrated 

 German colonists. Further up and particularly begin- 

 ning where the Rio Graces empties its waters into the 

 Valdivia, about three-fourths of a mile below the city, 



