146 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE 



side court converted into pretty little gardens which 

 look like jewel boxes. The streets— this term is only 

 applicable to the lower city— are partly paved with 

 stones, though the sidewalks have cement paving, and 

 others are badly or not at all graded, as is the only plaza 

 in Valparaiso. Only the most important business streets 

 have lights. 



When the Spaniards founded Valparaiso amidst green 

 mountains, the name " Valley of Paradise" was prob- 

 ably well chosen, but now— it is called thus inappropri- 

 ately. The surrounding hills at present merely show 

 naked, red rocks, covered here and there with desert 

 weeds, intermixed with large cacti, presenting an un- 

 usually sad view, as the eye can nowhere rest upon a 

 spot of agricultural beauty, nay, not even a tree. Trees 

 are only to be found in the scattered gardens of the east 

 side. Of fruit trees we see mostly olives, figs, peaches 

 and apricots but rarely apple and plum trees. All of 

 them bear already pretty large fruits, which are ripen- 

 ing rapidly. There are many beautiful summer-houses 

 of roses and vines, together with those of passion flow- 

 ers and other climbers, which are now in full bloom. 

 One can pick roses all the year round, fresh from the 

 bushes. 



As far as amusements are concerned one finds Val- 

 paraiso to be an American city, i. e., the like is not 

 known here. The first glance upon the topography of 

 the place shows clearly that whoever goes about in these 

 streets is not seeking pleasure but hard cash. There- 

 fore Valparaiso has only one theater and one large pub- 

 lic garden (Apolanco) where they have concerts on Sim- 

 days; this resort, however, has not nearly the size of the 

 "Exchange Garden" in Konigsberg. 



The busy life in the harbor affords me more pleasure 

 than that on shore. I therefore have remained most of 

 my time of late on board, in order to watch the fun. 

 Particularly beautiful is the sight on Sundays of the 

 many merchant and other vessels when all masts carry 

 their gay flags— English, Brazilian, immense Dutch 



