THE OCEAN VOYAGE 147 



three-mast vessels, small Chilean schooners, Hamburg, 

 Peruvian, Italian, North American, Spanish, French, 

 Bolivian, Danish, Swedish, Liibeck and Prussian vessels 

 are there in gayest mixture. The farthest from shore 

 are the warships, a North American, an English, a 

 Chilean and a Spanish Fregatta, two Chilean and a 

 French gunboat, all stationed here; besides these I have 

 seen in port during our stay a French 24-gun man-of- 

 war, an English fregatta with 56 cannon and a steam 

 corvette of the same flag. The American man-of-war is 

 a magnificent new vessel with 62 guns. On board of the 

 latter and of the English boat are bands of music which 

 delight us every night with really fine concerts; they 

 play mostly well known airs, European dances, among 

 which 1 heard to my great surprise the ''Flora Gallop." 

 These melodies can be heard far away in the pure, calm 

 night air of the quiet harbor until the thundering of the 

 batteries from the war vessels and the returns from the 

 beach announce the ninth hour. Suddenly everything 

 stops, silence reigns; not a boat glides over the waters 

 of the bay, which plainly shows the outlines of the dark, 

 silent ships resting upon its mirrored, placid bosom. 

 Only here and there, may be seen a lonely light, which 

 throws its ray through a narrow window of some cabin. 

 Fairy-like is the appearance of the city after dark— a 

 sea of lights ascending in terraces and zigzags along the 

 dark, bare mountains. 



During our stay we have had so far two earthquakes 

 and one revolution. The first earthquake was so insig- 

 nificant that I never noticed it, while I became quite 

 conscious of the second one. It took place on Sunday, 

 October 26th, at 6:15 p. m. I was on board, sitting on a 

 bench in the deck tent. The shock raised me a few 

 inches from the bench and its noise may be likened to 

 the rattling of a dropping anchor chain of a large ves- 

 sel. Our ship actually trembled for several minutes. 



The revolution was more serious. You will probably 

 have received news of it in Europe and I do not doubt 

 that the details of causes of the outbreak of October 28th 



