A VISIT TO EUROPE 335 



Neil's oyster-house, which we visited afterwards, was 

 to me the most interesting eating-place I had ever visited. 

 It was just eleven o'clock when w T e entered the large 

 rooms, which did not present any strange features except 

 that the ceilings seemed lower than is ordinarily the case 

 in large restaurants. As we were among the first to en- 

 ter, we seated ourselves where we could see every new- 

 comer, and thankful 1 was, as never had I seen so cos- 

 mopolitan a throng in any place as filed in at Neil's. The 

 "Four- Hundred" of the theatrical world of St. Pauli 

 mingled with the most picturesque foreign element as 

 well as our own gaily attired peasant-emigrants, mostly 

 sight-seers, who wished to enjoy an oyster-supper at this 

 unique though not-at-all fashionable place. "Fraternal 

 Brotherhood" seemed to be the slogan of this strange 

 group of humanity. The repast was good and well served 

 but the rooms became so filled with smoke that I was glad 

 to escape from them. We decided to visit one more place 

 of local, i. e., St. Pauli fame— the Spanish "Fonda" of 

 Rudecindo Roche, who is said to have the best variety of 

 Spanish wines of any dealer in the metropolis, though he 

 might have chosen a more aristocratic location for his 

 headquarters. When we entered his place, we were greet- 

 ed by a handsome man of good medium stature, muscular 

 build, whose dark complexion and magnificent black eyes 

 compared well with the engaging smile with which he 

 greeted us. It was not the greeting of a typical inn-keep- 

 er but that of a gentleman, and I firmly believe that he 

 has missed or lost his real vocation. I heard later that 

 this foreigner— a publican in the sight of men— feeds the 

 hungry and clothes the poor without noising it abroad. 

 If his eyes are the mirror of his soul, this Castilian must 

 have his heart in the right place.* 



♦All this is true. — In later years, Roche obtained five wolf-cubs, 

 which he trained very carefully, like dogs, and then exhibited 

 them in the large cities of Europe. I was told that he died from 

 wounds, received from his treacherous pets during an exhibition 

 at Antwerp. — And the poor missed him. — Translator. 



