372 Notes on Sport and Travel iv 



streets, and negro servants both male and female 

 are very common. The Portuguese seem always 

 to have had a hankering after dusky beauty, and 

 at Goa, I am told, the cross-breeds are in the 

 majority. 



The beauty of the Lisbon women must appeal 

 more, I fancy, to native than to foreign eyes. They 

 are sallow to swarthiness, swarthy almost, if not 

 quite, to blackness ; and all so undergrown. The 

 best point about them is their eyes, which are 

 generally dark, soft, and kindly. One sees what 

 they themselves consider beauty, real Moorish faces, 

 very dark, with small delicate features and intensely 

 black hair and eyes ; but the faces are not pleasant ; 

 they look sickly, dyspeptic. Among the men, the 

 lower orders, particularly in the country, are fine 

 big burly fellows enough, and look well fed and 

 very good-tempered. The women, as usual on 

 the Continent, seem to jump at once from fifteen 

 to fifty ; and in my life I never saw such crones, 

 such withered hags with such beards, as at Lisbon. 

 Many of the common women wear the long blue 

 cloak and hood exactly like the Irish women, so 

 like, as nearly to induce an Irish friend of mine " to 

 try them wid de Erse." I saw some very pretty 

 little Moorish faces peeping out of windows on the 

 road to Cintra, which seemed to belong to young 

 people of about twelve or thirteen. The big blue 

 cloak, decent in itself, covers all manner of sins 

 in the way of rags and dirt. The coloured hand- 



