IV 



My Log 373 



kerchief tied round the head, serving at once as 

 a bonnet and veil, is also identical. The way the 

 hand protrudes from the cloak and manages the 

 handkerchief, so as to cover, half cover, or uncover 

 the face, is very coquettish and pretty to behold. 



Improvement — that foe to the picturesque — has 

 almost driven the wondrous old carriages of Lisbon 

 off the face of the streets. The old vehicle is a 

 species of cab on very high wheels, slung on two 

 high beams of wood projecting from the frame- 

 work which bears the wheels, and all gorgeously 

 ornamented. Another form is evidently a sedan 

 chair, with wheels put to the aft-shafts, and a mule 

 between the fore ones. The funeral business is 

 still carried on in them. The coffin is stuck 

 transversely behind the splashboard ; the priests ^ 

 black -muzzled and sulky, follow in similar con- 

 veyances, without the coffin, each being drawn by 

 handsome mules ridden by men in black hessians 

 and cocked hats. 



One of the great lions of Lisbon is Cintra, where 

 is the house in which the Convention was not signed. 

 I had been told so much of its incomparable beauty 

 that when I got there I was foolish enough to 

 be disappointed, and did not take as much interest 

 in it as it was worth. It consists of a wondrous 

 eruption of granite, now weathered into fantastic 

 boulders broken and diversified in every way ; and 

 to those who could remain there for some days 

 would I fancy grow in beauty every hour. The 



