IV 



My Log 385 



always a very striking thing. In this respect I have 

 never seen anything at all to compare with the Rock 

 of Gibraltar. The Rothenfelzs near Vereutznach are 

 the only comparable things that come into my head at 

 this moment ; and they, in spite of their brilliant 

 colour at sunset, are infinitely inferior. They, and 

 Swiss and Tyrolese cliffs, dwindle off into small 

 meannesses at their sides, in a way which destroys 

 their effect ; the eye cannot take them in all at once. 

 Gibraltar stands out from the plain one perfect crystal 

 with a personality about it, — not a mere rock which 

 has been made use of by men, but a thing made 

 purposely to answer a great purpose. 



I am surprised that I have never heard more of 

 the scenery about Gibraltar. It is not grand, but it 

 is decidedly fine and wild on all sides. The sierras 

 towards the cork-wood are black and jagged, and the 

 coast-line away to the east is bold and of a warm 

 glowing copper colour. From most points the bay 

 seems entirely landlocked, the southern barrier being 

 formed by the Apes Hill. It is a pity that it is not 

 really landlocked, for its value as a coal-bunker is 

 seriously diminished when a south-wester sweeps in. 

 I saw a ship go ashore one afternoon in a heavy 

 gale, and a big frigate obliged to get her steam up 

 and away ; also the captain came off in a gunboat, 

 and steamed round us and went back again, being 

 unable to board from the short nasty sea. 



The Sumpter, a crazy-looking craft, is anchored 

 near us, and a Yankee gunboat at Algegsira watching 



2 c 



