IV 



My Log 387 



things, be the cleanest of towns instead of being the 

 dirtiest, as it generally is, always saving and except- 

 ing Valetta. Jews, Turks, and infidels swarm in the 

 streets ; the Moors, with hens and eggs from Barbary, 

 are by far the most Christian and gentlemanly- 

 looking. 



I have gone round to Catalan Bay, and have 

 hired a boat for fishing purposes ; it is a small boat 

 of oval shape, very strongly built, almost solid with 

 timber, and carries an enormous triangular sail. We 

 begin by trying for bonito^ the tackle consisting of 

 a stout line terminating in two or three yards of fine 

 brass wire beautifully mounted with strong swivels, 

 and our bait a whole mackerel. As we thrash along 

 with the boat gunwale under (being boarded a 

 quarter of the way across the deck on each side for 

 this reason), our backs against one side, and our feet 

 wet with the rush of water against the other, our 

 bait spins about thirty yards after us, bouncing and 

 leaping clear of the water from the pace we go. 

 There is a bright flash in the sunshine, a mighty tug, 

 and we play and haul in a lively fish some five or 

 six pounds, which puts one in mind of a mackerel, but 

 is far more beautiful. His back is a wavy shaded 

 blue, with a few darker oblique bars, and his stomach 

 pure mother-of-pearl. When we get him we stick a 

 knife into the back of his head, and as he dies such 

 shifting and changing of beautiful colours sweep over 

 him, such metallic glories of steel-blue and opal 

 quiver and flicker across back and belly ! A love 



