396 Notes on Sport and Travel iv 



large egg-shaped block of polished granite. The 

 streets are as narrow as streets can be, very often 

 barely three feet wide, with the houses overhanging 

 and often meeting. One gets most lovely views of 

 the sea and the bay generally looking down these 

 said lanes. It is all quaint, untouched, and as 

 thoroughly Eastern as anything I have seen. One 

 hardly sees a European in the upper part of the 

 town, and the tall, sad-faced Moors stalk about as 

 noiselessly as ghosts. They are fine fellows to 

 look at, face and figure. The Jewesses are the 

 points of colour, being gorgeously, not to say 

 gaudily, dressed and covered with gold coins. The 

 shape of their garments puts one in mind of that 

 of English and French women sixty years ago, — a 

 very short waist, under the armpits, with a great 

 expanse of arms and bosom. The Moorish women 

 slip about in white trousers and a sort of coat 

 reaching to the knees, with a thin white veil held 

 across the face just below the eyes, which are limpid 

 and languid. They are rather fond of dropping 

 this veil for a moment before a European, if there 

 be no Moor looking on ; but I saw little to justify 

 them in such a proceeding. There seems nothing 

 to do but to wander in and out and round about 

 the narrow lanes, and I suppose that one would get 

 tired of that eventually, though at first, and to one 

 who has never seen the East, it is very full of 

 interest. I could hear of no good shooting except 

 at enormous distances ; lions are getting very 



