THE LADO ENCLAVE 



of them turned and said, " Master, the water is deep, we 

 must sleep and come back to-morrow." This was not a 

 bad idea, but nevertheless no one slept until late that 

 evening, for I made them follow the path which ran 

 parallel to the river, and although we did not strike a 

 village that day, I was satisfied that we had covered 

 more than fifteen miles, and in the right direction. The 

 country was now densely wooded and the mule had 

 difficulty in finding a suitable spot for grazing. While 

 sitting at my evening meal I noticed that my hut was 

 being interfered with, and on looking out of the door I 

 espied the beast quietly munching away at the fresh 

 grass that formed the roof. Another dodge he had learnt 

 was to put his head in at the door and lift the lid of one 

 of the food boxes to look for the salt package that I 

 kept there for bartering purposes. 



The next morning I was up long before daybreak, 

 and had not gone far before we struck a promising path 

 with recent tracks of natives upon it, following this 

 we came upon a village situated on both banks of the 

 Ara. The river had subsided, and here at last we were 

 enabled to cross in safety, though it was some sixty 

 yards across, and the water was still armpit deep ; but 

 every one got over without mishap and our camp that 

 night lay close by the south bank of the Ara. 



The sight of the moon rising behind the village was 

 gorgeous, the leaves on trees and bush stood clearly 

 outlined against the clear night sky as the great orb rose 

 over the frenzied dancers, whose fires sent thin curling 

 columns of smoke wafting across the glowing mass, and 

 then a gentle breeze would waft the smoke to one side 

 and again reveal that sight of sights in the tropics — 

 the rising of the moon. 



I shall not soon forget the unearthly din of singing, 

 trumpets blowing, drums beating, and babies howling 

 to the accompaniment of hundreds of naked feet stamping 



ii5 



