LIFE IN THE FAR WEST. 195 



beyond this nothing is seen but the bare surface of the rolling 

 prairie. In no other part of the cham are the grand character- 

 istics of the Far West more strikingly displayed than from this 

 pass. The mountains here rise, on the eastern side, abruptly from 

 the plain, and the view over the great prairies is not therefore 

 obstructed by intervening ridges. To the westward the eye sweeps 

 over the broken spurs w^hich stretch from the main range in every 

 direction ; while distant peaks, for the most part snow-covered, are 

 seen at mtervals rising isolated above the range. On all sides the 

 scene is wild and dismal. 



Crossing by this pass, the trappers followed the Yuta trail over 

 a plain, skirting a pine-covered ridge, in which countless herds of 

 antelope, tame as sheep, were pasturing. Numerous creeks inter- 

 sect it, well timbered with oak, pine, and cedar, and well stocked 

 with game of all kinds. On the eleventh day from leaving the 

 Huerfano, they struck the Taos valley settlement on Arroyo Hon- 

 do, and pushed on at once to the village of Fernandez — sometimes 

 but improperly, called Taos. As the dashing band clattered 

 through the village, the dark eyes of the reboso-wrapped mucha- 

 chas peered from the doors of the adobe houses, each mouth armed 

 with a cigarito, which was at intervals removed to allow utterance 

 to the salutation to each hunter as he trotted past of Adios Amer- 

 icmios — "Welcome to Fernandez I" and then they hurried off to 

 prepare for the fandango, which invariably followed the advent of 

 the mountaineers. The men, however, seemed scarcely so well 

 pleased ; but leaned sulkily against the walls, their sarapes turned 

 over the left shoulder, and concealing the lower part of the face, 

 the hand appearing from its upper folds only to remove the eternal 

 cigarro from their lips. They, from under their broad-brimmed 

 sombreros, scowled with little affection upon the stalwart hunters, 

 who clattered past them, scarcely deigning to glance at the sullen 

 Pelados, but paymg incomprehensible compliments to the buxom 

 wenches who smiled at them from the doors. Thus exchangmg 



