JUG 



OR, BOTANICAL DICTIONARY. 



JUG 



767 



is left, will decay, and rot the body of the tree. The best 

 season for transplanting these trees, is as soon as the leaves 

 begin to decay, when, if they be carefully taken up, and 

 their brandies preserved entire, there will be little danger of 

 their succeeding, although they be eight or ten years old ; 

 but it must be remarked, that trees removed at that age, 

 will neither grow so large, nor continue so long, as those 

 that are removed when younger. This tree delights in a 

 firm, rich, loamy soil, or such as is inclinable to chalk or 

 marl ; and will thrive very well in stony ground, and on 

 chalky hills, as in the large plantations near Leatherhead, 

 Godstone, and Carshalton, in Surry, where great numbers 

 of those trees are planted upon the downs, and annually pro- 

 duce large quantities of fruit. The distance between these 

 trees ought not to be less than forty feet, especially if regard 

 be had to their fruit ; though when they are only designed 

 for timber, if they stand much nearer it promotes their 

 upright growth. The Black Virginian Walnut is much more 

 inclined to grow upright than the common sort, and the 

 wood being generally of a more beautiful grain, renders it 

 preferable to that, and better worth cultivating. Some of 

 the wood is so beautifully veined with black and white, that, 

 when polished, it appears at a distance like polished marble. 

 The cabinet-makers esteem it highly for inlaying, as well as 

 for bedsteads, stools, chairs, tables, and cabinets, for all 

 which purposes it is one of the most durable woods of Eng- 

 lish growth, and less liable to be infested with insects than 

 most other kinds, which is probably owing to its extraor- 

 dinary bitterness : but it is not proper for buildings of 

 strength, being liable to break off very short. The general 

 opinion is, that the beating off the fruit improves the trees; 

 which is improbable, because in doing it the younger 

 branches are generally broken and destroyed ; but as it 

 would be exceedingly troublesome to gather it by hand, so 

 in beating it off great care should be taken that it be not 

 done with violence, for the reason before assigned. In order 

 to preserve the fruit, it should remain upon the trees till it 

 is thoroughly ripe, when it should be beaten down, and laid 

 in heaps for two or three days ; after which it should be 

 spread abroad, and in a little time the husks will easily part 

 from the shells: they should then be well dried in the sun, 

 and laid up in a dry place, secured from mice and other 

 vermin ; in this place they will remain good for four or five 

 months. If put into an oven gently heated, and, after remain- 

 ing four or five hours to dry, be packed up in oil-jars or 

 any other close vessel, mixing them with dry sand, they will 

 keep good six months. The oven dries the germen, and 

 prevents their sprouting, but when too hot will cause them 

 to shrink. In setting the nuts, Dr. Hunter recommends 

 drills to be made at one foot asunder, and two inches and 

 a half deep, into which put the nuts four inches apart. 

 Evelyn advises some chopped furze to be mixed with them, 

 to preserve them from vermin. The spring following, the 

 plants will come up ; and in two years they will be of a 

 proper size to plant out in the nursery. There, having 

 shortened their tap-roots, plant them in rows two feet and 

 a half asunder, and at the distance of a foot and a half in 

 the rows. Here they may remain till they are of a proper 

 size for their final planting. If they are to be planted in 

 fields, they should be'risen out of the reach of cattle before 

 they are removed from the nursery, which should be done 

 with great caution ; the knife should be very sparingly 

 applied to the roots, and they should be planted as soon as 

 possible after taking up, soon after the fall of the leaf. 

 In raising the Walnut for fruit, Mr. Boutcher recommends 

 flat stones, tiie-sherds, or slates, to be buried eight inches 



deep under the nuts when they are set , the distance to be 

 six inches, and the depth two inches. After two seasons, 

 remove them early in autumn, and plant them fourteen or 

 sixteen inches asunder, on the same kind of bottom, or any 

 hard rubbish, to prevent them from striking downwards, and 

 cause them to spread their roots on the surface. At the end 

 of two or three years repeat this again, making the bedding 

 at the depth of fifteen or sixteen inches, and planting them 

 two feet asunder: here let them remain for three or four 

 years, when they will be fit to remove for the last time. 

 The soil for fruit should be dry and sound, with a sandy, 

 gravelly, and chalky bottom. The trees managed in this way 

 will have higher-flavoured fruit, that ripens earlier, and they 

 will bear a plentiful crop, twenty years sooner than in the 

 usual method. The best manure for them is ashes, spread 

 at the beginning of the winter after the lands have been first 

 ploughed or dug. As the plants raised from nuts of the same 

 tree will bear fruit of very different qualities, Mr. Boutcher 

 advises the inarching of one of the best sorts on the Com- 

 mon Walnut-tree; by which method the planter is both sure 

 of his sort, and will have fruit in one third of the time in 

 which he could obtain it from the nut. This however is 

 only practicable in a few situations; and a Walnut-tree is 

 geneially about twenty years in bearing fruit from the nut. 

 If these trees be intended to form a wood, for which purpose 

 they answer extremely well, Dr. Hunter advises to take them 

 out of the nursery when they are three or four feet high, 

 to replant them three yards asunder, and thin them when 

 their heads begin to interfere ; this method will draw up 

 these large and branching trees with beautiful stems to a 

 great height. For raising timber, Mr. Boutcher's plan is, to 

 set the nuts in February, in drills five feet asunder, eighteen 

 inches distant in the rows, and two or three inches deep, 

 taking up every other plant after two years. They may then 

 stand thus four or five years longer, the ground between being 

 cropped with turnips, cabbages, or other kitchen-garden 

 plants. From time to time, the least promising may be cut 

 off below ground, when they are near touching each other, 



till they are left at the distance of thirty feet. All the 



other sorts of Walnuts are propagated in the same way, but 

 as few of them produce fruit in England, their nuts must be 

 procured from North America. They should be gathered 

 when fully ripe, and put up in dry saw), to preserve them 

 in their passage to England. The sooner they are planted 

 after their arrival, the greater chance there will be of their 

 succeeding: when the plants come up, keep them clean 

 from weeds. If they shoot late in the autumn, and their 

 tops are full of sap, cover them with mats or other light 

 covering, to prevent the early frosts from pinching their 

 tender shoots, which often causes them to die down a con- 

 siderable length before spring; but if they are screened from 

 these early frosts, the shoots will become firmer, and better 

 able to resist the cold. Some of the sorts being tender while 

 young, require a little care for the two first winters, but 

 afterwards will be hardy enough to resist the greatest cold of 

 this country. The black Virginia Walnut, which is the most 

 valuable, is as hardy as the common sort. They all require 

 the same culture as the Common Walnut; but grow best in 

 a soft loamy soil, not too dry, and where there is a depth of 

 soil for their roots to run down. The Hickory when young 

 is very tough and pliable, sticks of it are therefore much 

 esteemed ; but the wood, when large, being very brittle u 

 not of any great use. 



2. Juglans Alba ; White Walnut-tree, or Hickory. Leal 

 lets seven, lanceolate, serrate, the odd one sessile. The leaves 

 differ from the common sort, in being serrated, narrower, 



