STOCKHOLM 89 



I got very tired of it [he tells Darwin, June 24], though 

 it was excessively interesting, but the constant packing and 

 moving got odious. Such lots of people asked for you. 

 Even at the Hague I found a young Frenchman busy making 

 notes on the pictures, so I pointed out the Dodo to him, and 

 he immediately asked me whether itwas alluded to in Darwin's 

 last book on Animals and Plants, which he had read. 



At Upsala he received ' a regular ovation and Latin 

 speech from old Fries, a noble old septuagenarian,' which he 

 had to answer in English. At Stockholm and still more at 

 Copenhagen he is struck by the Ethnographical Museums, 

 illustrating the lives and arts of native races from the Stone 

 Age to modern civilisation. ' We have nothing in England at 

 all to compare with it.' At Herrenhausen, near Hanover, the 

 Palms, which he made this special pilgrimage to see, appeared 

 ' the finest in Europe, far surpassing Kew in number and good 

 cultivation, and a few in height too.' 



Taken all round, this trip was no less interesting than 

 agreeable, especially in the making of new scientific acquaint- 

 ances or the renewing of old ones, such as with Professor 

 Miquel and his family. Nevertheless, railways and hotels 

 proved most wearisome, and he confides to Asa Gray : 



It will take a great deal to get me to travel again in 

 civilised countries. I do long to get into the jungles and 

 live in tents or have my own cabin at sea. 



Minor excursions of this time combine active holiday- 

 making with the companionship of equally energetic friends. 

 Thus in April 1867 he spent a fortnight in Brittany with 

 Huxley and Lubbock, exploring the monuments of the ancient 

 big-stone builders ; he had another * perfect April fortnight ' 

 with Huxley in the Snowdon country the next year. In 1870 

 he tells Darwin of 



the jolly tour I took with Huxley (April 14-24) to the Eifel, 

 with my boy Charlie, to whom H. has taken a great fancy. 

 We dabbled a little in the Geology, which is most curious, 

 took long walks, ate very heartily, and came back quite as 

 well as we went. 

 VOL. n G 



