TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 9/ 



and a fine live salmon being caught was introduced. 

 After a few turns in the warm water he became quiet 

 ' vitaque cum gemitu fugit indignata sub umbras/ 

 either the shades below, or the shade of our awning, 

 or the uninvited guests (umbrae) who flocked round 

 us. You have no idea, sir, how good boiled salmon is. 

 "To acquire this three things are requisite a stormy 

 voyage, then a rustic entertainment without knives and 

 forks, and chiefly the utter and absolute and animated 

 freshness of the fish. I would turn up my nose at 

 your CALLER Edinburgh fish. We concluded our meal, 

 or rather feast, with some fine mutton ; and then, on 

 a green bank, and in a fine evening, with our faces 

 towards the wreck and the Irish coast, Giant's Cause- 

 way, &c., quaffed goblets of the delicious nectar of 

 Bordeaux and the Ehine in other words, claret and 

 old hock from our ship. A short walk up the country 

 sobered us completely, and we returned to the village 

 to tea. At supper we had the heads of the town, and 

 (inter alias) a man who has written wisely against tea, 

 and still more wisely against the Newtonian theory. 

 It is amusing to find in this remote and barbarous 

 corner a carle who holds Sir Isaac in utter contempt. 

 Next morning, after visiting the ship, we went to 

 Islay House, where we have remained ever since, to 

 our vast edification. Every day we have made ex- 

 cursions through the island, and constantly found 

 materials for gratification and amusement. The coun- 

 try is fertile and only needed cultivation, which Shaw- 

 field is giving it in great abundance. The natives are 

 VOL. i. G 



