102 TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 



north-east ; and as it was past eleven, I allowed myself 

 to be lulled asleep by the cadence of the chorus and the 

 oars. About half-past twelve I heard a little confu- 

 .sion, and -fpipd. the steersman quitting the helm to 

 give-pJace v to a more experienced one. Upon looking 

 r ^ifidi la isceif^ presented itself which beggars all de- 

 scription. We were roughly and rapidly rolling through 

 such a frightful pass as you cannot form any idea 

 of. On each side huge masses of broken and impend- 

 'ing rock stretched up to a terrible height above our 

 heads. These were towards their bases pierced with 

 large, dark, rough caves, into which the sea dashed 

 with stunning noise. Around our crazy overloaded 

 bark lay huge masses of broken rocks, which rendered 

 our course very serpentine, and every instant the keel 

 grazed with a heavy and petrifying noise along the 

 sunken rocks. 



" A circumstance occurred which, if you ever were 

 at sea, must add vastly in your mind to the charms 

 of this fine scene. Every stroke of the oars was 

 attended with a vivid and durable stream of fire, 

 throwing out sparks on all sides still more bright. 

 My attention was called from this grand spectacle 

 to the ludicrous panic -struck pickle of our worthy 

 Doctor. 'Good Lord, sir sir sir!' 'Well, 

 Doctor/ said I, ' here is a fine scene for you/ 

 ' 'Deed, my dear sir, I fear it won't do/ ' Look at 

 that cavern/ ' We touch the bottom ! ' 'Is not 

 this light delightfully horrible ? ' ' Hear ! hear ! 

 how we touch the sides!' 'Only see, Doctor, 



