TOUR IN THE WESTERN ISLES. 103 



what a noble scene the flashing of the water, the 

 foaming of the sea, the majesty of the rocks I ' ' Oh 

 dear ! I am sure our boat can't weather it/ 'Then, 

 Doctor, the craziness of the vessel, the shallowness of 

 the water, the horrible gulfs near us. By the by, 

 don't Mr Burke reckon terror the basis of the sub- 

 lime?' 'Mr Brougham, sir sir, I am just looking 

 where we shall leap out, for a last chance, when the 

 boat is dashed to pieces ! ' At one o'clock, after 

 much perilous navigation, and a vast deal of grand 

 scenery, we opened into a fine safe bay, and in half 

 an hour more landed. We were conducted to the 

 town (of which more hereafter), and entered the 

 priest's house. A more wretched hovel never shel- 

 tered beast from the storm than this ; and yet it is 

 the only thing tenantable in the island, except the 

 tacksman's. We refreshed ourselves a little, with his 

 wife and mother; then, your humble servant being 

 superintendent of stores and servants (ex officio), 

 repaired with his train and provisions to the other 

 house, was surrounded by many of the savages, 

 ordered a fire, boiled a kettle, and blessed his own 

 providence in the first instance for thinking of so 

 charming and refreshing a beverage. I always make 

 a point of landing in full uniform. My command 

 over the stores and servants gives me vast dignity 

 and patronage. Besides this, a joke goes about of 

 giving us all nicknames. One is 'Lark;' the Doctor, 

 from his crawling after weeds, stones, and puddles, 

 is ' Toad' ; and I, from some foolish mistake or other, 



