134 VISIT TO DENMARK [1799. 



the next inn, a trick often played to save taking 

 another spare horse next stage. Found the people 

 here very civil, and got some sour milk and cold 

 potatoes. The night cold and a little rainy. Rode 

 by a pretty large river to Hamnade, where by mistake 

 the forebote had stopped, so we had to stop here. A 

 miserable place. Coffee got, after much surprise at 

 first, and honey for sweeting. Slept in one wretched 

 bed, taking the precaution of showing pistols, and 

 we afterwards found this was not unnecessary. On 

 paying next morning the man made a charge for 

 water ! 



Oct. 8. A very wet day, at times raining very 

 hard. The road lay over an open green turf all the 

 first stage, and near the river. At Lingby found a 

 Swedish servant who spoke good English. We break- 

 fasted on blood-puddings, eggs, and milk. Next 

 stage, two miles (Swedish), at a foot's pace, owing to 

 the sulkiness of the driver : pouring the whole time, 

 and no wood to shelter us, so got completely wet. 

 Coasted a very large lake for two miles and a half 

 without coming to the end of it. In the middle 

 several islets ; one large, with wood and houses on it. 

 The houses in this part of the country are very neat 

 both outside and inside, and intermixed every now and 

 then with church spires, constructed in a most fan- 

 tastical manner of wooden billets representing tiles, 

 which gave the landscape a very singular and romantic 

 appearance. Passed what appeared to be a large 

 shallow lake, with several houses scattered over it; 



