142 VISIT TO DENMARK [ I 799- 



robbed and murdered not far from the town. We 

 concluded it would not be very cold, from having 

 killed a viper on the road as we came. Nevertheless, 

 after a little travelling, it grew bitter cold, and we 

 could only go at a foot-pace, the horses being knocked 

 up. I, of course, fell asleep, and my dreams experi- 

 enced a singular change as soon as the cold and the 

 breeze began. I first thought I was on board a ship 

 in a piercing wind, and tried in vain to get into the 

 cabin below. I awoke for a minute or two, and again 

 was asleep. But now I was walking on the pier of 

 Leith in a cold day. Then I was in rooms where 

 there was no fire, and all the windows open, so that 

 the wind blew through one's very body. I again 

 woke, but soon slumbered again, and then I was near 

 a blacksmith's forge, and going in for the warmth of 

 the fire. The bellows were turned against me and blew 

 cold wind, and then, unable to struggle longer against 

 the elements, I gave up all further attempts to sleep. 

 Oct. 11. Arrived at the end of the stage, we 

 had to wait till half-past eight, and then proceeded 

 pleasantly enough, the day fine, and the road showing 

 a charming view of the lake the banks woody, and 

 also very rocky. On this day the country was well 

 cultivated, often indeed very rich ; barley, oats, rye, 

 flax, and young wheat. Some places had been thickly 

 wooded, but cleared now ; the roads remarkably bad. 

 On the road to Uncta met great crowds of market 

 people, some well-dressed, substantial-looking farmers. 

 At Uncta found a crowd all drunken and smoking; 



