/ET. 22.] AND SCANDINAVIA. 143 



the scene was odd enough. We then rode on, in a 

 charming moonlight, through a cultivated country to 

 Esta, where we had to wait till half-past twelve, and 

 then to Molby. During the intervals of sleep, consoled 

 ourselves with the idea of comfort there, as it is the 

 best inn on the road. At three we arrived, after the 

 variety of a horse restive and running away, but met 

 with grievous disappointment, owing to the people 

 absolutely refusing us any grog whatever. The kitchen 

 had a fiery furnace lit for baking. In about an hour 

 and a half a dozen damsels turned out of one bed in 

 the corner. "We found that the house was brimful of 

 a General Quilfelt and suite from Stralsund. After 

 much waiting, got some of our own tea made. The 

 suite were soon all astir to set out about four. 

 Stuart went to one of their beds, while I bullied, and 

 made tea by main force ; then had a long conversation 

 with the General, whom I found very gentlemanly. 



We despatched a forebote, and ordered our horses 

 at nine to Shrobick, where 'we expected to meet the 

 General again to-morrow night I ought to say to- 

 night, as I am writing between four and five, just 

 going to bed in one of the aide-de-camp's nests. 



Oct. 12. After napping in the nest, scarce cold 

 from the aide-de-camp's carcass, got up at eight, and 

 breakfast being discussed, remarked the odiousness 

 of the hogs here : they perform the office of scaven- 

 gers orally. Stuart was literally hunted by them. 

 Molby is situated on a quick-running river of con- 

 siderable size, on which are a great number of mills ; 



