JET. 26.] TOUR THROUGH HOLLAND. 275 



avenues, walks, fountains, temples, and fine houses ; 

 thick and nice-trimmed hedges, dark walks, parterres, 

 and all the richness of Dutch gardening. Every pro- 

 prietor a " Koofman." People all civil to excess, both 

 French and Dutch. All smoking, and drinking claret 

 and coffee. Appearances of industry and ease uni- 

 versal. Came to a plain of vast extent, with Amster- 

 dam in the distance, salt-water lake, and sea far off. 

 Haarlem church to the right, row of sand-hills at a 

 distance behind; meadows studded with spires, and 

 clumps of farmhouses; road along a dyke for ten 

 English miles. Dam at Spardam gave a dreadful idea 

 of power of sea breaking in ; at gates at 9^ exactly 

 as said ; went over nervous bridges, &c., rumbling on 

 the piles. Then to " the arms of Amsterdam," a 

 superb French hotel, where by accident I found Galiffe 

 lodges. Excellent supper, and most refreshing Ehen- 

 ish madeira and seltzer. Sound nap. 



Amsterdam, Aug. 10, 1804. Kindly received by 

 Vander Hoeven, Galiffe, and Melville. Monstrous 

 bustle on all hands. It is easy to lose one's way in 

 Amsterdam, as one always finds the same trees and 

 canals in every street of any size. Hollow sound of 

 piles, and stink of canals. Houses huddled together 

 as if falling. Some obviously so ; one or two here and 

 there actually zigzag. No plainness, all in bad taste ; 

 clumsy cut out tops and ornaments. 



Stadthouse, a massive square, about 460 windows, 

 five stories, and 23 windows in front ; finest hall of 

 marble I ever saw about 100 pilasters fluted. Hall 



