UP THE RHINE. [1804. 



of Buonaparte's Guards, Italians. Visited Ehrenbreit- 

 stein, quite demolished by treaty, never taken ; stands 

 nobly over Coblentz, which is a remarkably neat town, 

 with some large buildings. Vineyards constant, rich 

 and beautiful. Scenery, if possible, finer ; regulation 

 of vineyards on both sides the same, which is, that 

 there are fifteen days before the vintage (Oct. 16) 

 when not even the proprietor can enter a vineyard 

 on any account ; that is the time when the grapes are 

 quite ready for the press. On the 15th of October, 

 drums give notice, and all rush in ; then they can eat 

 their fill. 



Passed Mentz, but did not venture to go into it. 

 After leaving the Ehine, I worked my way through 

 Switzerland into Italy, arriving at Verona, where I 

 slept on the 5th of October. 



No need of being called was roused by a horrid 

 toothache, and rose before five. Cured it in two 

 hours with tobacco-leaves. Eoad to Vicenza one 

 rich vineyard; a few mulberries. The vines make 

 garlands all the way between the elms, and each gar- 

 land is weighed down with innumerable clusters of 

 black grapes. Generally clover and grass between 

 the rows ; sometimes corn and maize. Peasants all 

 gay, being Sunday and the Emperor's name-day. 

 Eoad level, some part steep from high bridges. Three 

 or four rivers, large, but utterly dried up ; one had a 

 good road along its course ; but in a few weeks, per- 

 haps days, they will overflow. One or two bits of 

 road I can't conceive passable in the dark. 



