298 TOUR THROUGH ITALY. [1804. 



house of the minister and couriers a very large good 

 palace surrounded by others, some of which have 

 eighty-four windows on a side. 



After dining at the Cafe* di Venezia and sleeping, 

 which was necessary to remove a fever which was 

 oppressing me, went to the opera ; neat, but small. 

 An opera buffa, and a comedy in one act. Music 

 very pretty. Tiers of stage-boxes are called after the 

 great composers. Actors very submissive, as usual 

 bow when applauded. 



Kome, Oct. 26. Went out to hunt for an English 

 compagnon de voyage to Naples, having resolved to 

 go thither at once. Agreed with courier. Went to 

 see sights. Church of Sant' Andrea della Valle 

 noble frescoes and architecture by Domenichino. 

 Antoninus' pillar much inferior to Trajan's, which 

 was excavated by a former pope. Grand fountain of 

 Trevi water comes as from the rock. Effect of 

 Michael Angelo's architecture of the Campedoglio is 

 superb. Colossal foot of Apollo wonderful. 



Cardinal Borgia received me very graciously at 

 dinner, made me come in, and invited me to stay, 

 but I refused till my return. American consul very 

 civil. Evening spent at the Colosseum, Circus, and 

 Forum. Then set off after regaling on ices, which 

 you have here excellent in every coffee-house. 



Two guards well armed attended on horseback; 

 being soldiers of the Pope I had no confidence in 

 them. The courier of Naples was robbed a month 

 ago here. The road sometimes fine, at one place 



