300 TOUR THROUGH ITALY. [1804. 



of yellow, red, and brown sulphur ; and as you ascend 

 you come to hotter parts, and these are almost all 

 sulphurous, and give out much hot sulphurous-acid 

 gas. Many parts even near bottom very hot. Went 

 up through the desolated villa, and visited houses 

 overthrown. Many parts as I ascended burning hot. 

 Walked over parts, and saw where a stick, &c., took 

 fire. At night is quite red. Almost knocked down 

 with fumes. 



The views of Naples and bay most striking. The 

 large even flat walls of the houses here are made for 

 the spot, and the quantity of villas and islands in 

 offing, with English men-of-war and three Neapolitan 

 (fitted out against the Algerines), add much to the 

 effect. 



At Naples almost famished. The Neapolitans take 

 the siesta regularly. They shut up shop at mid-day; 

 then regularly undress and go to bed as at night till 

 four, when they begin again. Six is at present Ave 

 Maria, or night, and all hours reckon from it; but they 

 know the hours of our computation. 



They call them " di Spagna," sometimes " di 

 Francia;" in some parts of Italy, the latter. The 

 title Don is frequent here with all ranks, since the 

 Spanish times. It is used with first name, second 

 little used. Lazzaroni are very numerous ; have all 

 houses if they please, but prefer streets and porticoes. 



Naples, Nov. 1, 1804. Went in caleche to Avernus. 

 Grotto on going out of Naples is astonishing ; a mile 

 long, a hundred feet high. Four carriages can go 



