im.\ POINTS OF ETIQUETTE, 43 



to taste it ; but whilst making their exceedingly graceful bow, 

 they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to cut your throat. 



On the third day we pursued rather an irregular course, as 1 

 was employed in examining some beds of marble. On the fine 

 plains of turf we saw many ostriches (Struthio rhea). Some of the 

 flocks contained as many as twenty or thirty birds. These, when 

 standing on any little eminence, and seen against the clear sky, 

 presented a very noble appearance. I never met with such tame 

 ostriches in any other part of the country : it was easy to gallop 

 up within a short distance of them ; but then, expanding their 

 wings, they made all sail right before the wind, and soon left the 

 horse astern. 



At night we came to the house of Don Juan Fuentes, a rich 

 landed proprietor, but not personally known to either of my 

 companions. On approaching the house of a stranger, it is 

 usual to follow several little points of etiquette : riding up slowly 

 to the door, the salutation of Ave Maria is given, and until 

 somebody comes out and asks you to alight, it is not customary 

 even to get off your horse : the formal answer of the owner is, 

 " sin pecado concebida " — that is, conceived without sin. Having 

 entered the house, some general conversation is kept up for a 

 few minutes, till permission is asked to pass the night there. 

 This is granted as a matter of course. The stranger then takes 

 his meals with the family, and a room is assigned him, where 

 with the horsecloths belonging to his recado (or saddle of the 

 Pampas) he makes his bed. It is curious how similar circum- 

 stances produce such similar results in manners. At the Cape 

 of Good Hope the same hospitality, and very nearly the same 

 points of etiquette, are universally observed. The difference, 

 however, between the character of the Spaniard and that of the 

 Dutch boor is shown, by the former never asking his guest a 

 single question beyond the strictest rule of politeness, whilst the 

 honest Dutchman demands where he has been, where he is going, 

 what is his business, and even how many brothers, sisters, or 

 children he may happen to have. 



Shortly after our arrival at Don Juan's, one of the large herds 

 of cattle was driven in towards the house, and three beasts were 

 picked out to be slaughtered for the supply of the establishment. 

 These half-wild cattle are very active ; and knowing full well 



