aoo I'ALDIVIA. [chap, xiv 



any other tribe which I had before seen. Their expression is 

 generally grave, and even austere, and possesses much character : 

 this may pass either for honest bluntness or fierce determination. 

 The long black hair, the grave and much-lined features, and the 

 dark complexion, called to my mind old portraits of James I. 

 On the road we met with none of that humble politeness so uni- 

 versal in Chiloe. Some gave their " mari-mari " (good morning) 

 with promptness, but the greater number did not seem inclined 

 to offer any salute. This independence of manners is probably a 

 consequence of their long wars, and the repeated victories which 

 they alone, of all the tribes in America, have gained over the 

 Spaniards. 



I spent the evening very pleasantly, talking with the padre. 

 He was exceedingly kind and hospitable ; and coming from 

 Santiago, had contrived to surround himself with some few com- 

 forts. Being a man of some little education, he bitterly com- 

 plained of the total want of society. With no particular zeal 

 for religion, no business or pursuit, how completely must tin's 

 man's life be wasted ! The next day, on our return, we met 

 seven very wild-looking Indians, of whom some were caciques 

 that had just received from the Chilian government, their yearly 

 small stipend for having long remained faithful. They were 

 fine-looking men, and they rode one after the other, with most 

 gloomy faces. An old cacique, who headed them, had been, I 

 suppose, more excessively drunk than the rest, for he seemed 

 both extremely grave and very crabbed. Shortly before this, 

 two Indians joined us, who were travelling from a distant mission 

 to Valdivia concerning some lawsuit. One was u good-humoured 

 old man, but from his wrinkled beardless face looked more like 

 an old woman than a man. I frequently presented both of them 

 with cigars ; and though ready to receive them, and I dare say 

 grateful, they would hardly condescend to thank me. A Chilotan 

 Indian would have taken off his hat, and given his " Dios le 

 page ! " The travelling was very tedious, both from the bad- 

 ness of the roads, and from the number of great fallen trees, 

 which it was necessary either to leap over or to avoid by making 

 lon^ circuits. We slept on the road, and next morning reached 

 Valdivia, whence I proceeded on board. 



A few days afterwards I crossed the bay with a party oj 



