1835.1 PASSAGE OF THE CORDILLERA. 313 



CHAPTER XV. 



Valparaiso— Portillo pass — Sagacity of mules— Mountain-torrents — Mines, 

 how discovered — Proofs of the gradual elevation of the Cordillera — Effect 

 of snow on rocks — Geological structure of the two main ranges, their 

 distinct origin and upheaval — Great subsidence — Red snow — Winds — 

 Pinnacles of snow — Dry and clear atmosphere — Electricity — Pampas — 

 Zoology of the opposite sides of the Andes — Locusts — Great Bugs — 

 Mendoza— Uspallata Pass— Silicified trees buried as they grew— Incas 

 Bridge — Badness of the passes exaggerated — Cumbrc— Casuchas — Val- 

 paraiso. 



PASSAGE OF THE CORDILLERA. 



March 7 th, 1835. — We stayed three days at Concepcion, and 

 then sailed for Valparaiso. The wind being northerly, we only 

 reached the mouth of the harbour of Concepcion before it was 

 dark. Being very near the land, and a fog coming on, the 

 anchor was dropped. Presently a large American whaler ap- 

 peared close alongside of us ; and we heard the Yankee swearing 

 at his men to keep quiet, whilst he listened for the breakers. 

 Captain Fitz Roy hailed him, in a loud clear voice, to anchor 

 where he then was. The poor man must have thought the voice 

 came from the shore : such a Babel of cries issued at once from 

 the ship — every one hallooing out, " Let go the anchor! veer 

 cable ! shorten sail ! " It was the most laughable thing I ever 

 heard. If the ship's crew had been all captains, and no men, 

 there could not have been a greater uproar of orders. We after- 

 wards found that the mate stuttered : I suppose all hands were 

 assisting him in giving his orders. 



On the 11 th we anchored at Valparaiso, and two days after- 

 wards I set out to cross the Cordillera. I proceeded to Santiago, 

 where Mr. Caldcleugh most kindly assisted me in every possible 

 way in making the little preparations which were necessary. In 

 this part of Chile there are two passes across the Andes Io Men- 

 doza : the one most commonly used — namely, that of Aconcagua 

 or Uspallata— is situated some way to the north ; the other, called 



