336 USPALLATA PASS. [chap. xv. 



mountains, dotted over with the pale evergreen Quillay tree, and 

 with the great chandelier-like cactus, are certainly more to be 

 admired than the bare eastern valleys ; but I cannot quite agree 

 with the admiration expressed by some travellers. The extreme 

 pleasure, I suspect, is chiefly owing to the prospect of a good fire 

 and of a good supper, after escaping from the cold regions above : 

 and I am sure I most heartily participated in these feelings. 



8th. — We left the valley of the Aconcagua, by which we had 

 descended, and reached in the evening a cottage near the Villa 

 de St. Rosa. The fertility of the plain Mas delightful : the 

 autumn being advanced, the leaves of many of the fruit-trees 

 were falling ; and of the labourers, — some were busy in drying 

 figs and peaches on the roofs of their cottages, while others were 

 gathering the grapes from the vineyards. It was a pretty scene ; 

 but I missed that pensive stillness which makes the autumn in 

 England indeed the evening of the year. On the 10th we reached 

 Santiago, where I received a very kind and hospitable reception 

 from Mr. Caldcleugh. My excursion only cost me twenty-four 

 days, and never did I more deeply enjoy an equal space of time. 

 A few days afterwards I returned to Mr. Corfield's house al 

 Valparaiso. 



